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Copenhagen Fashion Week has long moved beyond a simple trade fair and closed runway shows. CIFF has evolved significantly in recent years under Sofie Dolva, and Copenhagen Fashion Week has likewise sought not only to become more inclusive but also to tackle key issues shaping the fashion industry.

A prime example is Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Small Talk, Big Conversation, powered by Zalando – a series of discussions that go beyond the latest collections to address the pressing topics facing the industry.

On the final day of the fashion week, the panel The Digital Mirror – Re-writing the Rules of Fit in Europe took place, moderated by Amy O’Brien, Tech Editor at Vogue Business.

The conversation brought together three experts: Dr. Helena Lewis-Smith, psychologist and body image specialist; Leona De Graft, VP of Ecommerce at Levi’s; and Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu, Director of Product Management at Zalando.

Fra left: Amy O’Brien, Tech Editor, Vogue Business – Dr. Helena Lewis-Smith, Body Image Expert and Research Psychologist – Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu, Director of Product Management, Zalando – Leona De Graft, VP of Ecommerce, Levi’s

All three brought unique insights, and particularly the two major brands, Levi’s and Zalando, have access to vast amounts of data that offer a window into the future of the fashion industry.

The conversation explored how AI and virtual try-on technology can create a more personalised fit, an approach that not only reduces returns, benefiting both the bottom line and sustainability, but also redefines how brands approach the customer experience.

The panel was unanimous in highlighting returns as one of the most underestimated levers for building a more responsible fashion industry, noting that they are often treated as a problem rather than an opportunity. Data from both Zalando and Levi’s made it clear that repeated returns are not just a logistical and financial challenge; they also reveal design flaws, fit issues, or unclear communication with consumers.

By leveraging AI to understand why items are returned, brands can translate this data into actionable design insights, adjusting fit, size guides, and even design choices before the next collection hits the shelves. In this way, returns become an active part of the development process – a source of insight rather than a necessary evil.

In the coming months, attention will turn to the real impact of these well-intentioned initiatives.

Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu shared examples from Zalando of AI-driven solutions designed to ensure clothing fits individual customers more accurately, while Leona De Graft explained how Levi’s combines data and creativity to enhance the overall shopping experience.

And yes, the Levi’s executive also revealed that shiny jeans are making a comeback.

Despite a busy schedule of competing events across the city, Mater on Købmagergade was packed to capacity, underlining the strong public interest in these conversations.

Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu, Director of Product Management, Zalando – Leona De Graft, VP of Ecommerce, Levi’s

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